Monday, April 16, 2012

Exploring Borough Market

This is a Guest post by MEENA VENKATARAMAN. In the light of the bright morning sun, Southwark cathedral is a beautiful sight. Days like these are few in otherwise grey London. It is nonetheless cold and we head to the market in search of hot food. Not surprisng at all, the sun is more an accessory, an adornment to what is a beautiful day. London has some of the best food markets and the one we are visiting is one of the oldest. We step on the cobbled street.

The first array of shops are lined along a narrow lane behind the cathedral. We spy a few cafes tucked away, bustling with people. A couple of steps down this lane and we enter the market itself. At once the colours, shapes and the distinct aroma of all kinds of food hits me, an assualt on the senses. I am drawn to colour like a moth to a flame and I reach for my camera. The first line of shops are full of sweet treats, a mouth watering spectacle. As we walk by, we pick up free samples to taste. If only we could buy them all.

Borough Market is ancient. The trick to surviving change is to adapt and assimilate, Evolve as they say. And so it has been with this market. When the market first stared is still speculative. Some say the 13th century or earlier, when the market was established in response to the growing traffic of traders selling their produce - grain, fruits, vegetables, livestock and fish on London Bridge. But the present location was a piece of land called the 'Triangle' which was purchased by the residents when the first market was closed down by an act of parliament in 1755. The market has been on the scene since and, in addition to the local produce, it has managed to assimilate the cultural vibrance of London as a city. It is not just British produce you find here, but all kinds of food from around the globe - Turkish, Middle Eastern, Malaysian, Indian, Thai and a whole host of others.

The vegetables are eye-catching. ‘Capsicum’ I say, ‘Peppers’ I am corrected :). The bright red tomatoes and fruits of all shapes and sizes sit neatly stacked. Behind them is a neat line of spices. Besides food and vegetable, the market sells art. Brightly arrayed cards are on display.

And then, there is the cheese. Completely fresh and extremely tasty. Stripped off packaging that it normally comes with in the supermarket the proposition of buying cheese seemed so much more appealing. The whites and mild yellows with promise of milky goodness seemed to linger on the taste buds. My personal favourite was the Cheddar. But there were so many others that were just as mention worthy.

It is a Saturday and what most people are here for is the food. It is hard making a choice in this place. But what makes it harder are the free samples being given away. So, we barter our appetite to what we think would make us a good meal and stand in patches of sun as we eat. The vegetable soya burger is great. Some distance away we buy some mulled wine. Out of curiosity we ask the lady what spices have gone into this yummy warm christmasy concoction. I remember cloves and nutmeg from that conversation and cinnamon maybe. A little away the Malaysian stall is running brisk business. Huge pots of curry are being made and given away in boxes. Where else would you get such a wonderful meal for under a fiver.

We walk along. The market is huge. We enter the section selling meat. Fish lies stacked on ice to preserve freshness I guess. There is more food and vegetable. We walk through and come out on the other side of the market.

What strikes me is how the market has shaped things to come. Around the market there are several restaurants. People seem to be queueing up to get it. The entire area has something special about it. There is a sort of synergy and there seems to be plenty of room for every kind of business here.

After a good two or three hours roaming the lanes inside and out we finally step out of this gem of a market. But it has been a frequent haunt with its promise of good food and drink when we find ourselves in the area.

I'd like to thank Meena for writing this guest post and for sharing her photographs. This is the link to Meena's blog: Travel Tazzels

Monday, April 02, 2012

Bazaars of India - a listing


This is the start of a cumulative list of blogposts on Bazaars of India.

I’d like to thank fellow bloggers who have already shared their links or written guest posts:

Bazaar writings from Windy Skies by Anil Purohit
Fashion street in Mumbai  by Radha Vijay
Life in Colour  by Laura Mannering
Markets in Chennai by Rekha Vijayshankar
Market Diary: Sassoon docks in Mumbai Laura Mannering

If some of you would be able to share your memories of the markets you know and can write a guest post for Indian Bazaars, it would be very much appreciated.

For sharing links and suggestions, please do leave a comment on this blogpost or write an email to: kiranmkeswani(at)gmail(dot)com

The list continues here:
Before the malls, there were the markets (This is about the Old Madras markets, written by V.Sriram, a well-known historian of Chennai)
The Markets of Vadodara by Neha S.
Shoe, Shave and Key stalls at 'Street Vendors' (In this blog, every post tells us something really interesting about street vendors in India and elsewhere and also shares an interesting collection of vintage photographs of bazaars of old)
India's village markets with a tribal twist at 'Lonely Planet'
Creating Streets for Hawkers and Walkers at 'India lives in her cities too'
Hampi Part 5 - The Hampi Bazaar at 'A Wandering Mind'
Malli to Nalli at 'Le Monde'
French & Czech signs in Agra shops at 'Travel Tales from India'
Crawford market calling at 'Itchy Feet'
Hindi Cinema in Poster form, at a Mumbai shop at 'Intransit Blog - New York Times'
The Wholesale flower market at Dadar at 'Mumbai Magic'
Chor Bazaar again! at 'Mumbai Magic'
I visit the Wholesale market at Vashi at 'Mumbai Magic'

Related Post:
Marketplaces of the world - a listing

Marketplaces of the World - a listing

This is the start of a cumulative list of blogposts on Marketplaces of the World.

I’d like to thank fellow bloggers who have already shared their links or written guest posts here:
The Marketplace– a Lonely Planet Blog Carnival - Lonely Planet Bloggers
Keswick Market in Cumbria – by Radha Vijay of 'Musings of a Night Owl'
Witches Market – by Meena Venkataraman of 'Travel Tazzels'
Albert Cuyp market in Amsterdam – by Hasti Tarekat

If you have written earlier about a Marketplace anywhere in the world and can share the link, I’d like to add it to the list here. If you can write a guest post on a market that you have visited recently or not yet written about, that would be very welcome too.

For sharing links and suggestions, please do leave a comment on this blogpost or write an email to: kiranmkeswani(at)gmail(dot)com

The list continues here:
Bengali Bazaars (in Bangladesh) at 'I Should Cocoa'
The Food Bazaars...who needs organic? at 'I was in Turkey'
La Boqueria Market at 'I drink my tea sweet'
Iran: Bazaars of Shiraz at 'Ramble and Wander'
Sixth Street Market in Cincinnati at 'Blog at Cincinnati.com'
Istanbul: bazaars, boza, fish bread, palimpsest at 'Hearthstrung'

Related Post:
Bazaars of India: a listing

Saturday, March 17, 2012

The Politics of the Marketplace

The resilience of the marketplace in the Indian city makes one rethink about the modes of analysis of the urban processes. If a marketplace is influenced by the economic, the social and the political environment that prevails in the city, how do we interlace the readings and find meaningful answers when a problem occurs? How can we ensure that structures of power affect urban living in a beneficial way?

The reconstruction at the damaged Russell market started a few days ago. On visiting the market yesterday, I found that the work is going on at a rapid pace so that the market activity can resume to its normal level. At present, the fruit and vegetable vendors have already started to conduct business in the mornings. The market functions from the space that has already been roofed with the new corrugated metal sheets and metal rafters. An article in IBN Live, Renovation of Russell market points out that Rs. 40 lakhs has been invested. The vendors mentioned that they would be spending upto Rs.70 lakhs although their ideal budget was Rs.1.5 crores.

It is good to see that the vendors and the customers have a chance to be back into their familiar routine of the everyday sales. However, all is not well yet. The vendors have now been asked by the BBMP to vacate the premises. A legal notice has been issued stating that the building is in a dilapidated condition and not fit for occupation yet. The government reminded the vendors that it owns the building, it wants the vendors to evacuate the property and repair the damages based on a thorough evaluation of the structural condition of the market. The vendors have not yet left the building and the renovation work has not been stopped.

When I asked the vendors how they would respond to the government's stance that they own the market building and therefore the efforts of the vendors were not legal, they said they could not have waited for the government to plan the renovation. In the initial days after the fire, the government officials had told them that they didnot presently have the funds. It would have taken some months for the building to be repaired and for them to restart their business. Besides, they weren’t sure if it wouldn’t have all been postponed until after the elections. So, they had no choice but to invest their own funds and appoint a contractor for the repair work.

The Deccan Chronicle has noted in an article Russell market was the handiwork of miscreants on March 9, 2012 that “The initial suspicion was that the fire was caused due to an electrical short-circuit. However, the State Electrical Inspectorate that has been brought in to investigate the cause of the fire, has ruled out that angle and has given a clean chit to Bescom”. The vendors had said in the first few days after the fire that it could not have been an electrical short circuit. Now, the news highlights that “Bescom officials, from the start, had maintained that they were not to be blamed for the fire. We have even given in writing to the State Electrical Inspectorate the reasons for the fire. We are still waiting for the final report as it as not been submitted to us” said Mr Ashok Angadi, chief engineer, Bescom”

The former chief minister Kumaraswamy visited the Russell market ten days ago and handed over cheques of Rs.20,000 to many of the vendors who’s stalls had been affected. In DNA’s article on 5th March 2012, Kumaraswamy visits Russell market, gives Rs.20,000 each to shopkeepers he is reported to have said: “Other leaders such as SM Krishna may have promised Rs1 crore as compensation, but nothing has come of it. Unlike other leaders, I have not made any promises but shown you that I can deliver”

The evacuation notice by BBMP to the vendors, who seem to have challenged the ownership of the building by investing in the repairs themselves, the statement from Bescom clearing themselves from the blame of negligence and a People’s representative reassuring the local population of Shivajinagar that his concern and support for them can be valued as higher than his fellow representatives – at the root of all of this – there seems to be protection of individual interests surpassing the need for concern of heritage that belongs to the public and functionality of urban services for public good. There seems to be an exertion of power that each group professes that others must contend with. How can these seemingly individual actions become collective decisions for the city and its urban spaces?

Related posts:
Russell market after the fire
The Riddle of Russell market
Informal Economy and Urban space